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     83 
     84 Moleskine Mania: How a Notebook Conquered the Digital Era
     85 
     86 “Do you know there’s a section of our customer base that buys a fresh Moleskine
     87 every time they come into a store? We have no idea what they do with them”
     88 
     89 [81]August 30, 2024August 31, 2024 - by [82]Roland Allen[83]Roland Allen
     90 Updated 16:06, Aug. 31, 2024 | Published 11:22, Aug. 30, 2024
     91 [84]A stack of filled moleskin notebooks on their sideBarry Silver / Flickr
     92 
     93 In the summer of 1995, Maria Sebregondi was mulling over a knotty question,
     94 sailing with friends off the Tunisian coast. At thirty-six, she had already
     95 enjoyed a fruitful career, translating Marguerite Duras, Samuel Taylor
     96 Coleridge, and Vladimir Nabokov into Italian. She was particularly intrigued by
     97 the French pair of Georges Perec and Raymond Queneau, who wrote novels and
     98 poetry using formal constraints as a spur to creativity. Perec had written an
     99 entire novel, La disparition, without using the letter “e”; in Exercices de
    100 style, Queneau told the same simple story in ninety-nine versions, using a
    101 different prose form for each one. They called their playful genre Oulipo, an
    102 acronym derived from the French for “workshop of potential literature.” So
    103 Sebregondi was accustomed to the generation of ideas within set parameters, and
    104 on this particular sultry evening, she was presented with just such a
    105 challenge.
    106 
    107 Her holidaying shipmates included Francesco Franceschi, a friend whose company
    108 Modo & Modo sold designer gifts, and that night, he shared a problem. His
    109 business depended on other people conceiving and manufacturing products for him
    110 to sell, which kept profit margins low. What, asked Franceschi, could Modo &
    111 Modo manufacture themselves and thus sell more profitably? The group exchanged
    112 ideas long into the night, discussing emerging trends like cellphones, email,
    113 and cheap flights. They decided that the consumer they wanted to target with a
    114 hypothetical new product belonged to this new era: creative, free spirited, and
    115 mobile. Sebregondi labelled their design-conscious customer the “contemporary
    116 nomad.” But before any of the party could work out what to manufacture for
    117 them, the holiday was over and she had returned home with her children to Rome.
    118 
    119   • [85]Indigo May Have Lost the Plot
    120   • [86]The Case for Never Reading the Book Jacket
    121   • [87]How Do You Even Sell a Book Anymore?
    122 
    123 The question nagged at her for weeks, and she toyed with ideas, including a
    124 traveller’s toolkit containing exquisitely designed pens, bags, T-shirts,
    125 penknives, and so on. Nothing met the requirements of Franceschi’s brief, which
    126 demanded a product that would be easy to produce yet offer wide commercial
    127 potential. Then she came across two passages in the book she was reading for
    128 pleasure: The Songlines by Bruce Chatwin, a global bestseller since its
    129 publication eight years before. In the novel, a lightly fictionalized version
    130 of Chatwin explores the Australian outback, coming to understand that its
    131 aboriginal culture offers an insight into the origins of human culture—and
    132 perhaps into the restlessness of human nature itself. Conspicuously “creative,
    133 free spirited, and mobile,” Chatwin himself seemed a perfect fit for the
    134 “contemporary nomad,” and two passages in his novel triggered Sebregondi’s
    135 memory:
    136 
    137     “Do you mind if I use my notebook?” I asked.
    138 
    139     “Go ahead.”
    140 
    141     I pulled from my pocket a black, oilcloth-covered notebook, its pages held
    142     in place with an elastic band.
    143 
    144     “Nice notebook,” he said.
    145 
    146     “I used to get them in Paris,” I said. But now they don’t make them any
    147     more.”
    148 
    149     “Paris?” he repeated, raising an eyebrow as if he’d never heard anything so
    150     pretentious.
    151 
    152     Then he winked and went on talking.
    153 
    154 Later in the book, Chatwin expands on the story.
    155 
    156     Some months before I left for Australia, the owner of the papeterie said
    157     that the vrai moleskine was getting harder and harder to get. There was one
    158     supplier: a small family business in Tours. They were very slow in
    159     answering letters.
    160 
    161     “I’d like to order a hundred,” I said to Madame. “A hundred will last me a
    162     lifetime.”
    163 
    164     She promised to telephone Tours at once, that afternoon.
    165 
    166     At lunchtime, I had a sobering experience. The headwaiter of Brasserie Lipp
    167     no longer recognised me. “Non, Monsieur, il n’y a pas de place.” At five, I
    168     kept my appointment with Madame. The manufacturer had died. His heirs had
    169     sold the business. She removed her spectacles and, almost with an air of
    170     mourning, said, “Le vrai moleskine n’est plus.”
    171 
    172 This passage had struck many of Chatwin’s readers; its intimations of mortality
    173 seemed to foreshadow the author’s premature death only a year and a half after
    174 the publication of The Songlines. But to Sebregondi, it meant something more
    175 personal, because she recognized, from her time as a student in Paris, the
    176 notebooks Chatwin described. Indeed, she still had several. Digging them out of
    177 old boxes, she looked at them for the first time in years—and with new eyes.
    178 Why had Chatwin become so attached to this particular model that he would order
    179 a hundred rather than risk running out? How could such a utilitarian object
    180 assume such importance? Then it struck her that she might have hit upon a
    181 solution to Franceschi’s challenge—a simple product, easy to manufacture,
    182 appealing to creatives and imparting promises of travel, of glamour, of
    183 discovery.
    184 
    185 Phone calls to France confirmed Chatwin’s account (a sensible move: Chatwin
    186 always preferred a good story to the literal truth), and Sebregondi’s hunch was
    187 confirmed by serendipitous sightings of le vrai moleskine in other contexts:
    188 exhibitions of Matisse’s and Picasso’s sketchbooks, a photo of Hemingway at
    189 work. This product, she realized, already had a pedigree. More to the point, it
    190 had commercial promise, for millions around the world had already read
    191 Chatwin’s endorsement. It even accorded with the classic principles of Italian
    192 design: like an espresso, a pair of Persol sunglasses, or a Prada dress, le
    193 moleskine was minimal, functional, and assertively black.
    194 
    195 And yet, miraculously, no one made it anymore.
    196 
    197 Sebregondi took the idea to Milan, where Franceschi realized that she was on to
    198 something. With Chatwin having already solved the thorniest problem faced by
    199 anyone marketing a new product (what to call the damn thing), the pair entered
    200 what became a two-year process of product design, which resulted in the classic
    201 Moleskine notebook.
    202 
    203 You don’t need me to tell you what a Moleskine looks like, but you may not have
    204 considered how insistently its design sends messages to the contemporary nomad.
    205 The minimal black cover looks, at first glance, like it might be leather:
    206 robust but also luxurious. The non-standard dimensions, a couple of centimetres
    207 narrower than the familiar A5, let you slip the notebook into a jacket pocket,
    208 and the rounded corners—which add considerably to the production cost—help with
    209 this. They also stop your pages from getting dog-eared and, together with the
    210 elastic strap and unusually heavy cover boards, confirm that the notebook is
    211 ready for travel. The edges of the board sit flush with the page block,
    212 ensuring that your Moleskine can never be mistaken for a printed book. In use,
    213 it lies obediently open and flat, and the pocket glued into the back cover
    214 board invites you to hide souvenirs—photos, tickets stubs, the phone numbers of
    215 beautiful strangers. Two hundred pages suggest that you have plenty to write
    216 about; the paper itself, tinted to a classy ivory shade and unusually smooth to
    217 the touch, implies that your ideas deserve nothing but the best, and the ribbon
    218 marker helps you navigate your musings. Discreetly minimal it may seem, but the
    219 whole package is as shot through with brand messaging as anything labelled
    220 Nike, Mercedes, or Apple—and, like the best cues, the messaging works on a
    221 subconscious level.
    222 
    223 But in case those cues alone were not enough, Moleskine spelled out its brand
    224 values in the small folded leaflet which the notebook’s new owner would
    225 “discover”—as Sebregondi tellingly puts it—tucked in the pocket. The leaflet’s
    226 copy has evolved over time, and more and more languages have been added to it,
    227 but the central message has changed little from the early, Italian-only,
    228 version:
    229 
    230     The Moleskine is an exact reproduction of the legendary notebook of
    231     Chatwin, Hemingway, Matisse. Anonymous custodian of an extraordinary
    232     tradition, the Moleskine is a distillation of function and an accumulator
    233     of emotions that releases its charge over time. From the original notebook
    234     a family of essential and trusted pocket books was born. Hard cover covered
    235     in moleskine, elastic closure, thread binding. Internal bellowed pocket in
    236     cardboard and canvas. Removable leaflet with the history of Moleskine.
    237     Format 9 x 14 cm.
    238 
    239 The leaflet opened with a lie (the new Moleskines were not “exact reproductions
    240 of the old”) then immediately veered toward gibberish, but that didn’t matter.
    241 Pound for pound, those seventy-five words proved themselves among the most
    242 effective pieces of commercial copywriting of all time, briskly connecting the
    243 product’s intangible qualities—usefulness and emotion—to its material
    244 specification, thereby selling both the sizzle and the steak. Sebregondi and
    245 Franceschi picked an astutely international selection of names to drop: an
    246 Englishman, an American, and a Frenchman encouraged cosmopolitan aspirations.
    247 “Made in China,” on the other hand, did not, so they left that bit out.
    248 
    249 Modo & Modo ordered the initial production run of 3,000 notebooks in 1997, and
    250 the new Moleskine first went on sale in Milan, in a small bookshop on the Corso
    251 Buenos Aires. It sold through its consignment in days. Avoiding traditional
    252 stationers, the company targeted design retailers and bookstores: the strategy
    253 worked, and in 1998, they sold 30,000 notebooks. From 1999, they used their
    254 existing networks to distribute around Europe and then across the Atlantic.
    255 Within ten years, the American chain bookseller Barnes & Noble had become the
    256 brand’s largest retail partner. Just as Franceschi had hoped, the high profit
    257 margins transformed Modo & Modo’s fortunes. In 2006, a private equity firm
    258 bought him out, and sales continued to grow.
    259 
    260 In 2013, the Moleskine SpA launched on the Italian stock exchange, and in 2016,
    261 a Belgian car distributor bought the company outright, for half a billion
    262 euros. Small wonder that the story is now taught in business schools as a
    263 textbook example of successful product design and marketing. In 2017, the story
    264 came full circle when Moleskine and Chatwin’s publisher struck a deal to
    265 publish a new edition of The Songlines, bound in the now-familiar black boards,
    266 complete with elastic closure, rounded corners, ribbon markers, and pocket. You
    267 bought it shrink-wrapped to a blank journal, embossed—in a gesture which
    268 Chatwin would surely have recoiled from—with the motivational boost “Enjoy your
    269 travel writing.”
    270 
    271 Sebregondi herself stayed relentlessly on message for two decades, giving
    272 scores of interviews whose recurring theme was that the Moleskine was “first of
    273 all, an enabler for creativity.”
    274 
    275 Having stayed with the business through its various incarnations, she stepped
    276 back in 2017 and currently gives her time to the charitable Moleskine
    277 Foundation, which aims to drive social change, especially in sub-Saharan Africa
    278 and Eastern Europe, through—naturally—creativity. She also remains involved
    279 with Oplepo, the Italian offshoot of Oulipo. Her most recent translation is of
    280 Queneau’s One Hundred Thousand Billion Poems, in which the reader randomly
    281 generates sonnets from the book’s thousands of rhyming lines, constraints
    282 proving creative.
    283 
    284 I bought my first Moleskine during the early years of that boom and, a while
    285 later, found myself working for a book publisher keen to share in the
    286 Moleskine-driven growth of the upscale stationery market. Notebooks, we
    287 reasoned, had no words and no pictures—the tricky, expensive things that make
    288 “real” books so difficult to profit from. How hard could it be to cash in? So
    289 we created a range of notebooks, brightly designed and packed with gimmicks,
    290 and placed a substantial order at the printers. I was charged with visiting
    291 Barnes & Noble’s Fifth Avenue head office to present our wares, and I suggested
    292 that our colourful product could supply healthy turnover if racked alongside
    293 Moleskine in their stores.
    294 
    295 The buyer eyed me skeptically. “Along with the Moleskines,” he said. “Do you
    296 know there’s a section of our customer base that buys a fresh Moleskine every
    297 time they come into a store? Once a week, some people. We have no idea what
    298 they do with them.”
    299 
    300 I showed off my samples, stressing the cream paper, the ribbon markers, and the
    301 striking cover designs that supposedly set our brand apart. He shook his head
    302 and handed me a familiar black notebook in response. “See this?” he said. “We
    303 make them ourselves, own brand. The same size, the same number of pages. We use
    304 the same paper, the same boards, we make them at the same plants in China.
    305 They’re every bit as good as a Moleskine, and we ask half as much for them.” He
    306 paused for effect. “And Moleskine still outsells us. And you’re asking me to
    307 take shelf space away?”
    308 
    309 I was learning a hard lesson about the power of the brand. Others, however,
    310 made a better go of it. From 2005, Leuchtturm, whose specialty had been stamp
    311 collectors’ albums, took on Moleskine, matching them for quality while
    312 offering—the vulgarity!—a range of colours; older companies like
    313 Clairefontaine, Rhodia, and Paperblanks refreshed their offerings. Western
    314 hipsters, always alert to high-end Japanese design, started to import notebooks
    315 from companies like Midori, Hobonichi, and Stalogy, which bested any of the
    316 European brands with their exquisite papers and bindings (Moleskine and
    317 Leuchtturm both use mainly Taiwanese paper). In the US, Field Notes struck a
    318 utilitarian chord with a mid-century aesthetic. All presented a fresh spin on
    319 the basic product, and all benefited from the product building that Moleskine
    320 had done. If you cared for upmarket stationery, the 2010s were a golden age.
    321 
    322 At the same time, the Moleskine became a potent status symbol. Tech CEOs toted
    323 them, as did the designers, journalists, and writers whom Sebregondi had
    324 envisaged—and even more people whose aspirations perhaps outran their actual
    325 creativity. Spotted in your local Starbucks, these characters were easily
    326 mocked: the satirical website Stuff White People Like made hay with their
    327 accessorizing, as did the right-wing politician Karl Rove, who once told his
    328 audience at Yale that he knew them to be pretentious by their Moleskines. The
    329 mockery did nothing to hurt sales.
    330 
    331 Neither did a growing interest, from psychologists and lifestyle gurus, in the
    332 notebook’s practical effectiveness. Sebregondi herself suggested that the
    333 notebook’s minimal form made it a perfect creative tool, talking of it in the
    334 same terms as Queneau’s deliberately constrained work: “a simple object,”
    335 giving her the “sense of extraordinary possibility born from small things.” The
    336 productivity guru David Allen recommended making lists in notebooks, as did
    337 neuroscientist Daniel Levitin; the journalist David Sax wrote a book, The
    338 Revenge of Analog, which depicted paper notebooks (along with vinyl LPs, board
    339 games, and film cameras) mounting a spirited resistance against digital
    340 replacement. It became commonplace to contrast the old technology with the new.
    341 The original Moleskine had launched at the same time as the Palm Pilot, the
    342 first hand-held digital organizer, and had, from day one, faced competition
    343 from increasingly powerful devices. The laptop, the BlackBerry, the iPhone, and
    344 the iPad all seemed to offer far greater functionality than their paper
    345 antecedent, but a stubborn constituency of users refused to move over into the
    346 digital sphere, and numerous peer-reviewed studies soon showed that their
    347 obduracy made sense. Something about the act of writing by hand, and the
    348 production of a physical object, makes the older technology more effective than
    349 the new. Sebregondi had, unwittingly, prompted serious inquiry into the
    350 workings of the human brain.
    351 
    352 My own interest in notebooks had also progressed beyond the commercial. I read
    353 Samuel Pepys, loving the unfettered way in which he documented work, home,
    354 leisure, his urban environment, and his sex life; then I discovered my
    355 grandfather’s eye-opening pre-war diaries, just as wide ranging, although much
    356 briefer. So I started keeping my own journal in 2002, and each year added to a
    357 steadily growing heap of battered notebooks.
    358 
    359 Writing a diary made me happier; keeping things-to-do lists made me more
    360 reliable (which, in turn, made those around me happier), and I learned never to
    361 go to a doctor’s appointment, or a meeting of any kind, without taking notes of
    362 what I heard. But there appeared to be creative benefits too. Every artist I
    363 met seemed to have a sketchbook to hand, as did graphic designers—and even web
    364 designers, whose product was entirely digital. Authors all kept notebooks, as
    365 did journalists, critics, and other creative types—and the more assiduously
    366 they used those notebooks, the better their work seemed to be. The same applied
    367 to my colleagues’ work: playful lists, diagrams, and sketches regularly
    368 disgorged surprisingly good ideas.
    369 
    370 When notebooks appear on the scene, interesting things happen. To open up to
    371 the blank page and interact with it takes energy and sometimes a little
    372 courage.
    373 
    374 But the rewards may surprise.
    375 
    376 Excerpted from [88]The Notebook: A History of Thinking on Paper by Roland
    377 Allen. Copyright © Roland Allen 2024. Excerpted with permission from
    378 Biblioasis. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without
    379 permission in writing from the publisher.
    380 
    381 [89]Roland Allen
    382 [90]Roland Allen
    383 Roland Allen lives in Brighton, England, and works in book (and notebook)
    384 publishing. He has written books on bicycles and bread, has kept a diary for
    385 decades, and enjoys stationery a little too much.
    386 Tagged[91]audio[92]books[93]excerpt[94]history[95]homepage
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    516 ━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━
    517 [168]×
    518 
    519 Stand Up for Canadian Stories
    520 
    521 [169]Yes, I’ll help
    522 
    523 At a time when the US president is trying to define our national narrative, we
    524 must strengthen and champion our collective voice. Journalism that is truly
    525 reflective of our country has never been more vital. It’s through the support
    526 of readers like you that we can both celebrate and sustain Canada’s boldest
    527 conversations and secure the future of independent media in this country.
    528 
    529 Read more…
    530 
    531 If you’ve enjoyed articles published by The Walrus, please consider making a
    532 contribution today. Your support helps us invest in a key component of
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    535 
    536 Thank you for your support.
    537 
    538 [svg]
    539 
    540 Claire Cooper
    541 Managing Editor, The Walrus
    542 
    543 
    544 Stand Up for Canadian Stories
    545 
    546 At a time when the US president is trying to define our national narrative, we
    547 must strengthen and champion our collective voice. Journalism that is truly
    548 reflective of our country has never been more vital. It’s through the support
    549 of readers like you that we can both celebrate and sustain Canada’s boldest
    550 conversations and secure the future of independent media in this country.
    551 
    552 If you’ve enjoyed articles published by The Walrus, please consider making a
    553 contribution today. Your support helps us invest in a key component of
    554 democracy—independent, clear-sighted reporting—and continue to provide
    555 paywall-free, fact-based journalism.
    556 
    557 Thank you for your support.
    558 
    559 Claire Cooper
    560 Managing Editor, The Walrus
    561 [172]Yes, I’ll help
    562 
    563 [174]×
    564 
    565 References:
    566 
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